We've Got the longest distance in this journey

Hachinohe to Onagwa : 152 nautical miles

05:55 Departed Port of Hachinohe

08:00 Taneichi port for Fuel 282L

11:40 Cape Todogasaki

12:40 Passed Kamaishi Harbor

14:30 Passed Kesennuma Harbor

17:00 Arrived to Onagawa Port, fuel 330L

We departed at 05:00 from Hachinohe harbor. We couldn't get fuel in such an early morning. We had to find a appropriate port to get fuel.

It was beautiful tranquil morning with fog. On the gate island of Hachinohe harbor, there is a small shrine.  Many Japanese believe that we connect with forefathers and they are living with us in the shrine. We prey for them when we go to the deadly work, and thank when we return to home. Fishing is one of the deadliest work. Many fishermen pray for the shrine wishing safety cruise. 

It was foggy day, but we had 5 miles view on the sea. It was not big problem.

At 8:00, we entered in  the Taneichi marine. But this marina was closed in spring season. So we got out from Taneichi Marina and entered into the fishing port. Several fisherman gathered to buy the fishes were very interested in our Minor29DC. The Minor29DC is a cute boat, and looks like fishing boat. I read an article describing her that  a Minor29's original design was fishing boat. I guess fisherman are familiar with her shape.

"I think she is a good one." one fisherman said.
"I think some young man in this village buy it."
"What is the maximum speed?"
"What is the average speed of it?"
"How much is the fuel comsumption?"
bra,bra,bra... We enjoyed the conversation with them.

They amused that we come from the Otaru port and we would go to Yokohama.

In Japan there are many conflict between pleasure boats and fishing boats. But the Minor29DC was welcomed at any fishing port. 

After refuel our boat, we departed the Taneichi port. We passed Cape Todogasaki at 11:40. Todogasaki means there were lots of sea lions on the cape. Indeed, we met sea lions more than ships.

Kamaishi bay at 12:40.

That is a natural harbor since ancient times. The depth of the Kamaishi quay is 63 meters. That is the deepest quay in the world. The Guinness approved it and recorded it in the book. 

The temperature around here was upper 15 degrees celsius. It was warmer than Hokkaido very much. I could sit down on the stern deck. The Minor29DC could go linearly at 17 knots speed like a train on the rails.

Cape Todogasaki.

This cape is the east end of the main island of Japan.

Onagawa port

In the afternoon, it was rainy, we couldn't keep high speed. After the time 17:00, I began to think it was better to get entering to the port, we entered into the Onagawa Port. We took the inn Yamadai next to the port.  

Yamadai Inn. This inn was a typical inn near the port.

We had delicious sea-urchin dinner. 
Sea-urchin alived every where in the sea around Onagawa port.


Fuel was 330L

Sayonara Hokkaido

Esashi Hachinohe:158 nautical Miles

05:45 departed from Esashi Marina

08:17 Cape Shirakami
09:30 Fukushima Port fuel 177L

10:15 Fukushima port departed

12:20 Oma

14:00 Siriya Cape

17:40 Hatinohe Harbor

18:10 Mooring

 I learned that I never use the Esashi Marina in off season.  The marina which locate in north Japan area close in off season. There are no pleasure boat in off season, The marina didn't  maintain the equipment very well. However, the fishing port is well maintained.  A winter season is a fishing season in north sea. You should better use a fishing port.

We departed from the Esashi Marina.
It was no wind day. But choppy waves increased  more as we got closer to the Tugaru channel. This photo is Matsumae lighthouse. It is famous channel as the one of the strongest currents in Japan. Even if it was calm day, it was difficult to maneuver the Lukia on Tugaru channel.

The Lukia banked at over 30 degrees and her propeller sticked out on the surface of the wave sometimes. If there was 40 knots wind like yesterday, Lukia might sink. 

We changed our plan and went to stop at the Matsumae Port. Beacause I found the Matsumae Port was difficult to approach. Because the high waves were surrounding there. But we needed to refuel our boat, we entered into the Fukushima Port next to the Matsumae. 

Cape Shirakami : the most southern place in Hokkaido

The Fukushima Port was very easy to enter. I could approach to the quay easily. Although the quay was higher than pontoon, it was easy to get on at the quay from Minor 29DC. We could stepped up from the hand rail or the roof to the quay. It is a one of the advantage of Minor 29DC.

The Fukushima port was the last port we entered in Hokkaido. We met a lot of kind men in Hokkaido. We love it. 

Honshu – Main Island of Japan

       
We went across the Tsugaru channel very smoothly. "Sayonara Hokkaido, Welcome Honshu."  The channel is famous for the strong current and wind, but It was flat today. We were lucky.


We returned to Honshu that is the main island of Japan. The surface of the sea looked like a mirror. In the spring season, the wind blow from west. The Pacific Ocean is eastern side of Japan, so the wind from west is interrupted by the Honsyu island. On the contrary, there are strong west wind on the west side of Hokkaido or Japanese sea in this season.

I kept the engine at 3200RPM. Our boat got 17 knots. It was very comfortable cruise. However long time cruising with such a continuous high speed revolution of diesel engine cause some troubles later. I did not know that at all.

Many big fishing net spread out near the shore. Although most of them were identified easily, I considered that we should better to pass around 1 to 3 miles off  shore.

We reached at the Hachinohe Harbor at 17:40. The Hachinohe Harbor is the biggest harbor in the Tohoku district.

Hachinohe Harbor

Big Wave Atacked Lukia

Setana to Eshashi : 47 nautical miles

In the next morning, I accessed the web site of Japan Meteorological Association in order to get weather forecast. I found there was a developed cyclone at the point of 45 degree north, 140 degree east which was moving to the east east north direction at 15 knots. 
It would be west wind at 40 knots around Tsugaru channel where we would had to pass. We had to stay in Esashi.

We waited the wind would became calm. But we had nothing to do except waiting.

“I’m going to check the Lukia.”, I said and went to the harbor.
I found there was no fender on the hull of the Lukia and the three fenders drifting on the surface of the port. They were ours obviously. I didn't know the clove hitch alone may become untied if it was not tightened well from time to time.

I asked the master of the inn to borrow a rod to catch the fenders . The madam of the inn ordered the staff to help us. We went to the harbor and got the fenders. If we failed to get them, we couldn't continue journey.

 

We walked around Setana Town and had a lunch for hours.


In the afternoon, the wind became very calm. I thought it was good enough to cruise. I decided to depart. We prey to wish safety journey in the local shrine.

Before world war two in Japan, shrines were a kind of local church and community information plaza.  So people get voyage information from the shrine.

We departed at 12:40. This photo is captured near by the Setana port. The wave was over 2 meters already.  

Even though the wind force was not so strong, big waves over 4 meters repeatedly attacked the Lukia from her bow.  The weather forecast was right.

We were so scared. But the Minor29DC went ahead keeping her posture steadily. 
The easy handling is the noteworthy performance of the Minor29DC. Waves might come in from any directions any time. The Minor29DC's quick response of steering is an advantage against the cruise risk. It was lucky that the wave cycle was very long and different from yesterday.

These photo was captured around the Esashi Marina.

When I approached to the quay in Esashi Marina, we were pushed by the strong wind and scratched hull to the quay's bolt a little.  But we were alive, that was not a big problem.

Mami said,

“Minor29 is a very cool boat! She could brake through the big waves.”
I thought so, too.
Minor 29DC is a very cute boat on the calm sea, but change to tough guy on the rough sea.

Meeting to 30 knots wind

 

Sutts to Setana : 39 nautical miles

I found the weather forecast it would be windy day. The wind would be strong.

"We can't go.", I said. 

But the sea was very calm.  We had nothing to do except looking at the calm sea.
That was very boring. I became to think that it would be safe to depart in the morning. 

"We are going to depart. If the wind blow strongly, we'll be back here.", I said. 
You know that was the typical wrong decision.

After staying for few hours in the morning, we departed from Suttsu port.

11:00 Depart from the Sutts Port
12:45 Siraito Cape
13:20 Motta Cape
14:40 Setana Port
 
Although we cruised smoothly for one hour, the wave became higher and higher. Thunders fall down near our boat.

The choppy waves crushed into fine bubble and left white form like string on the surface of the sea. You know  they were the sign of strong wind. I thought the wind was over 30 knots or more. We couldn't go back. Because high waves were attacking to the Lukia continuously. They were over 3 meters some times. I was afraid of side waves which might attack our boat while turning. I thought it was better to go ahead than to return. I was fool again.

However, our Minor29DC could cruise at 7 knots on the rough sea with stable posture. And she could divided into high waves very smoothly. I thought it was the Deep-V hull effect.

Our Minor 29 was controllable enough and the response of steering was very direct. I could turn the head of the Lukia toward the big wave quickly to avoid side wave attacks. In general, a single shaft drive boat doesn't have quick steering response, Minor29DC has very good responsibility.

We reached to Setana port at 14:40 eventually. Setana is a very beautiful place and the Setana port is a very safety port. Japan Coast Guards settle their office in the Setana port.

 

We stayed an inn near the port. The master of the inn arranged every thing for our journey.   We fueled our boat. Everybody we met in Hokkaido Island was very kind . We deeply appreciated.

 

There were fish market next to the port. Many men gathered to buy fresh fishes.

Departure for Long Journey

Otaru to Suttsu : 89 nautical miles

08:00 Started Marine Wave Otaru
10:30 Passed Shakotan Cape
11:00 Passed Kamui Cape
12:20 Stopped at Iwanai, fuel 230L
13:20 Departed from Iwanai
15:00 Strong against wind blow, decided to escape
16:30 Stopped at Suttsu

In the morning, we departed from the Otaru Marine Wave.
I checked engine, V-belts, oil pressure, battery and water temperature very carefully.

But I forgot to train myself for leaving and approaching to a quay.
Our boat, Minor 29 DC is a single shaft boat. That means she has paddle wheel effect. 
 
Because a paddle wheel effect may be very different from boat to boat, I need to find the best way to exploit the effect of our boat when we come to quay. Indeed, Minor 29 has very strong paddle wheel effect.

I departed Otaru immediately. I didn't check forecast. That was my fault.

We departed from the Otaru Marine at  8:00. There were many strange shape rocks on the shore in Hokkaido.

We didn't wonder why there were only few boats around the sea. We could see only sea lions or dolphins.

When we passed Cape Shakotan away 30 miles from the Otaru Marine, the remained fuel was about 240L. We wanted to reach the Esashi port today, but it was impossible.
So we changed our plan and went to fuel at the Iwanai port.

The Iwanai port was a good port.

At 15:20 we departed from Iwanai.

The low pressure zone was coming close gradually. The fishermen already knew it. 
I didn't check the forecast. It was my fault.

We couldn't keep normal speed. 
At 15:00 the wind became very hard( over 30 knots ) , we needed to turn the Lukia to the port Suttsu.

It was hard trip also. The city of Suttsu is called 'Wind Town'. Strong wind brew all seasons around Suttsu. There are many windmills on the shore to utilize wind power.

We cruised to the Suttu port in the against wind. Short cycle waves hit bow of our boat repeatedly. I kept the Lukia with 30 degrees offset to the wave direction cautiously as same as I learned at school. Off course it was safer than linearly approach to port, It was a waste of time.

Even though we arrived to the Suttsu port safely, I had to moor our boat. 
But that was my first experience under such a strong wind in my new boat. We were pushed by the wind and the Lukia went closer to the other boat at very fast speed.

My wife, Mami screamed, "We are Crashing!"

In the same time two young fishermen came our boat quickly, and jumped in to  our boat and  stopped her!. We were saved. They were very nice guys.


Mooring quickly, one of the young fishermen said.
"What a rare boat this is!", with smile.

They had not seen a pleasure boat like Minor 29 DC. Most boats are professional in Japan, especially in northern district. The pleasure boats except sailing boat never go around there.

After interesting conversations with them, we asked whether they know some good hotel to stay.
They introduced a pleasant inn for us.

"Lukia is a safety boat."- That is my first impression of Minor 29DC.
She had strong stability against choppy waves and she could go strait as if she was running on the rails. The first day of my long cruise was just over.

Preparing for Long Cruise

We left Yokohama to the Otaru for fantastic (crazy?) journey. When we arrived to the Otaru Marine Wave, a marina engineer,  Mr. Sasaki, had been perfectly finished the maintenance for our Minor29DC.  He maintained the engine, painted the bottom and changed the zinc. Additionally, he installed the auto-pilot system in the Minor29DC.

He filled the fresh water and fuel to the Minor29DC. Our boat, Minor29DC  was waiting for start.  

Additionally we bought following items for the safety journey.

1) two dram shaped fenders and 13 meters rope.

2) four 18 mm ropes (10m)

3) 40 litters bottled fresh water and some foods enough to drift over one month
(Minor 29 DC has 70L fresh water)

Cruising Plan

The path from Otaru to Yokohama was over 800 nautical miles journey.  

There are few marinas in northern area of Japan. They are  almost fishing port.
We prepared new fenders for fishing port avoiding to scrabble our boat to the quay.
We prepared the Port Information Books of Japan. The books are very convenient to get information about fresh water, fuel and factory available to repair our boat in the port. There might be no diesel oil station in a fishing port. Because many fishing boats use heavy oil.  

There are many fishing nets and sunken rocks in the sea near shore. It is dangerous to cruise over night. And It would be windy day in spring. It may be strong windy day called "Haru Ichiban" in spring season in Japan. We planed 10 days cruising at least.

The Reason We Decided to Ferry Her by Our Own

How do we bring her home to Yokohama?  That was the next question.

The problem was that there is about 800 nautical miles between Otaru and Yokohama.
 
Off course, we could have asked a professional ferry service to bring her to Yokohama. 
But the cost was estimated to be about $1000, that was enough to pay for the cruising cost by ourselves and spending nights in luxurious hotels, Mami said.  

Should we do it ourselves?……but it would not be so easy.

First, the distance.  It is not too popular or easy for a small power boat to make an 800 miles cruise.
 
Second, the following sea conditions.

A. Strong winds normally blow from Hokkaido to Yokohama in spring season.  Particularly around Cape Shakotan  and Cape Tappi,  there is  strong westerly prevailing winds blowing in the spring.(Tappi means a flying dragon)  
B. In Tsugaru Strait, there is one of strongest currents in Japan and we had to cross it.  
C. Dense fog spreads very often in the northeast side in Japan.

Third, We were beginners. 
We had  only 50 hours experiences cruising in a power boat before we bought the Minor 29 DC. The cruising experience was in a Sea Ray 230DA.
 
Sea Ray230 has a high powered engine, and planes at over 30 knots on the surface of the sea.

In contract, the Minor29DC is a semi-displacement boat. Her max speed is 17 knots. She is a totally different boat, and fortunately she is strong in the rough open seas. The maneuvering of a single engine boat is very different from the Sea Ray.

Additionally, the cruise in the Sea Ray was in a very easy flat bay. The journey from Hokkaido to Yokohama required passage through the offshore ocean. 

Despite the high risk in the rough and cold sea, we decided to bring her by ourselves. The reason was simply we just wanted to cruise and explore unknown places.